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How to choose a stitch order for sashiko patterns

There is rarely one universal order for every sashiko pattern, but a little planning can keep the reverse less tangled and the front easier to judge. Start with the lines that give the design its structure.

Updated 18 August 20262 min read · stitching time variesTechniques and traditions
In this article
  1. Start with the longest clear runs
  2. Leave crossings until their route is clear
  3. Use the order to support the hand

Start with the longest clear runs

Long straight rows often establish the scale and direction of a pattern. Working them while the cloth is open can make the remaining turns easier to place.

If the pattern has a strong centre line, use it as an anchor. Check the first repeat against the edge before spreading the same order across the whole cloth.

Leave crossings until their route is clear

At a crossing, decide which line continues and where the thread can travel without building a bulky stack on the reverse. Marking the sequence on a paper copy can remove guesswork.

Do not cross a thread simply because two printed lines meet. Follow the project instructions or the intended pattern structure.

Use the order to support the hand

Work from the area that feels most stable in your grip, then turn the cloth as needed. A technically neat order is not useful if it forces the wrist into a tense angle for every row.

Pause at the end of a repeat and inspect both sides. Small changes made early are easier than unpicking a whole field later.

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Read next

  1. A guide to geometric sashiko patterns2 minute read
  2. Asanoha sashiko pattern: structure, scale and stitching2 minute read
  3. How to choose the right scale for a sashiko pattern2 minute read
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References and further reading

  • Olympus: thread, cloth and needle basics
  • DARUMA sashiko product range

Product instructions vary. Follow the directions supplied with your cloth, thread, marker and tools where they differ from this general guidance.

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