Choosing sashiko cloth for patches
A patch has to support the damaged garment and accept repeated stitches at its edge. The best cloth is stable enough to spread stress but flexible enough to move with the item.
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Start beyond the hole
Measure the thinning around the visible damage, not just the opening. The patch should reach sound fabric with enough margin for stitching and washing.
Choose a cloth with a compatible hand. A very stiff patch on a soft shirt can create a hard boundary, while a flimsy patch may simply move the tear outward.
Check weave and edges
A close, stable weave gives the thread something to hold. If the chosen cloth frays heavily, allow extra margin, turn the edge or use a suitable preparation method.
Place the patch over a seam or pocket only when the added thickness will not interfere with movement. Test the layers before marking the sashiko field.
Match the repair to the garment
Denim, workwear, knit-adjacent clothing and fine cotton all need different patch weights. The patch should reinforce the garment without making the repaired area uncomfortable.
Wash a small material pairing before a visible repair. This reveals shrinkage and colour change before the patch becomes permanently attached.