How to start and end a sashiko thread
A secure start should hold the thread without pulling the cloth. Here is an overlapping start and a reverse-side finish described by Olympus, followed by a way to think about joins. Practise on your project materials before using it on the finished piece.
In this article
What you need
- A threaded sashiko needle
- A practice piece using the same cloth and thread as your project
- Scissors for trimming after the ends have been checked
Start by overlapping a short run
Olympus describes starting three stitches ahead of the intended beginning, working back, then covering that short run as you stitch forwards. The diagram separates the two passes so the direction is clear; on the cloth they occupy the same route.
Locate the beginning
Call the intended beginning A. Along the line, choose point B three small stitches beyond A.
Work back to A
Enter from the reverse at B and make the short run towards A. Leave enough tail to hold while working.
Continue forwards
Return along the same run towards B, overlapping those stitches, then continue along the pattern. Smooth the cloth and check that the tail stays in place.
Finish on the reverse
For its reverse-side finish, Olympus takes the needle to the back and makes three small scooping stitches through the cloth without showing them on the front. This needs enough cloth depth to catch securely. On a very thin single layer, use the finish specified for that project rather than pretending you can bury a stitch invisibly.
Turn the sample over before trimming. If a scooping stitch appears on the front or distorts the weave, undo that short finish and adjust it while the tail is still long enough to handle.
Join a new length without a bulky interruption
Finish the old length before it becomes too short to control. Start the replacement with the same overlapping method, keeping the pattern’s spacing continuous across the join. Judge the result on both sides after smoothing, before cutting spare thread.
Atsushi Futatsuya describes kasane, overlapping stitches used for starts, finishes and joins in his practice. He also explains that knots are not forbidden. His method depends on suitable sashiko thread; it is not a guarantee that every smooth embroidery thread will grip in the same way.
Sources: Atsushi Futatsuya: Sashiko Kasane, overlapping stitches
Check the end for the way the piece will be used
Handle the sample as the finished item will be handled. Flex a repair patch or turn a double-sided cloth over. If the end moves, fix it before repeating the same finish across the project. On a frequently washed or rubbed area, inspect the first completed wash too.
The useful question is whether your chosen finish stays secure and comfortable on that cloth. Do not leave a long loose reverse-side jump merely to avoid starting a fresh length.